{"id":763,"date":"2025-10-27T21:56:52","date_gmt":"2025-10-27T13:56:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/?p=763"},"modified":"2025-10-27T21:56:52","modified_gmt":"2025-10-27T13:56:52","slug":"aquarium-nitrogen-cycle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/aquarium-nitrogen-cycle\/","title":{"rendered":"Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle for Beginners"},"content":{"rendered":"

Setting up your first aquarium?<\/strong>\u00a0You’ve probably heard experienced fishkeepers mention something called the “nitrogen cycle” \u2013 followed by a bunch of confusing scientific terms that make your head spin. Don’t worry. This guide breaks down everything you need to know about the aquarium nitrogen cycle in plain English, so you can set up a healthy tank without losing a single fish.<\/p>\n

\"Aquarium<\/p>\n

What Is the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle? (The Simple Version)<\/h2>\n

Think of the nitrogen cycle as your aquarium’s natural sewage treatment system. Just like your home needs plumbing to handle waste, your fish tank needs beneficial bacteria to break down fish waste into less harmful substances.<\/p>\n

Here’s what happens in nature: Your fish eat food, produce waste (ammonia), and beneficial bacteria convert that waste through several stages until it becomes something your aquarium plants can use as fertilizer. Without this process, toxic ammonia would build up and kill your fish within days.<\/p>\n

Quick Definition:<\/strong>\u00a0The nitrogen cycle is the biological process where beneficial bacteria convert toxic fish waste (ammonia) into less harmful compounds (nitrites, then nitrates). This process keeps your fish alive and healthy.<\/div>\n

Understanding the Three Toxic Nitrogen Compounds<\/h2>\n

Before diving into the cycle itself, you need to understand the three main nitrogen compounds in your aquarium. Let’s use a simple color-coding system to remember them:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Compound<\/th>\nToxicity Level<\/th>\nSafe Level<\/th>\nWhat It Does to Fish<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Ammonia (NH\u2083\/NH\u2084\u207a)<\/strong><\/td>\n\ud83d\udd34 Extremely Toxic<\/td>\n0 ppm<\/td>\nBurns gills and skin, causes suffocation, leads to rapid death<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Nitrite (NO\u2082\u207b)<\/strong><\/td>\n\ud83d\udfe0 Highly Toxic<\/td>\n0 ppm<\/td>\nPrevents oxygen absorption (brown blood disease), causes lethargy and death<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Nitrate (NO\u2083\u207b)<\/strong><\/td>\n\ud83d\udfe1 Mildly Toxic<\/td>\nBelow 40 ppm<\/td>\nRelatively safe in low amounts; high levels stress fish and promote algae growth<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\"Nitrogen<\/p>\n

Detailed breakdown of nitrogen compound conversions in your aquarium<\/p>\n

The 5-Step Nitrogen Cycle Process (Explained Simply)<\/h2>\n

Let me walk you through exactly what happens in your aquarium, step by step:<\/p>\n

Step 1: Fish Produce Ammonia<\/h3>\n

Your fish eat food and breathe, producing waste through their gills and body. This waste immediately breaks down into\u00a0ammonia<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 the most dangerous compound in your tank. Uneaten food and decaying plant matter also produce ammonia.<\/p>\n

\u26a0\ufe0f Critical Warning:<\/strong>\u00a0Ammonia can kill fish in 24-48 hours at levels as low as 0.5 ppm. This is why you can’t just fill a tank with water and immediately add fish.<\/div>\n

Step 2: Beneficial Bacteria #1 Converts Ammonia to Nitrite<\/h3>\n

Here’s where the magic starts. A type of beneficial bacteria called\u00a0Nitrosomonas<\/em>\u00a0colonizes in your filter, substrate, and decorations. These bacteria consume ammonia and produce\u00a0nitrite<\/strong>\u00a0as a byproduct.<\/p>\n

Good news: Ammonia levels drop. Bad news: Nitrite is also toxic to fish.<\/p>\n

Step 3: Beneficial Bacteria #2 Converts Nitrite to Nitrate<\/h3>\n

Another group of beneficial bacteria called\u00a0Nitrobacter<\/em>\u00a0now enters the picture. These bacteria eat the nitrite and convert it into\u00a0nitrate<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 the least toxic of the three compounds.<\/p>\n

Step 4: Nitrates Accumulate Over Time<\/h3>\n

Your fish continue eating and producing waste. The beneficial bacteria keep converting ammonia \u2192 nitrite \u2192 nitrate. This means nitrates slowly build up in your aquarium water over weeks and months.<\/p>\n

Step 5: You Remove Nitrates Through Water Changes or Plants<\/h3>\n

Unlike ammonia and nitrite, nitrates don’t disappear on their own. You have two options to control them:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Weekly water changes:<\/strong>\u00a0Replace 15-25% of tank water with fresh, dechlorinated water<\/li>\n
  • Live aquarium plants:<\/strong>\u00a0Plants absorb nitrates as fertilizer, naturally keeping levels low<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    \"Aquarium<\/p>\n

    Typical timeline showing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels during the cycling process<\/p>\n

    How Long Does It Take to Cycle an Aquarium?<\/h2>\n

    This is the million-dollar question every beginner asks. The honest answer:\u00a0it depends<\/strong>. Here’s a realistic breakdown:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
    Cycling Method<\/th>\nTime Required<\/th>\nDifficulty Level<\/th>\nFish Safety<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
    Fishless Cycling (Pure Ammonia)<\/strong><\/td>\n4-6 weeks<\/td>\nEasy<\/td>\n\u2705 100% Safe (no fish present)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Fishless Cycling (Fish Food)<\/strong><\/td>\n4-8 weeks<\/td>\nEasy<\/td>\n\u2705 100% Safe (no fish present)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Fish-In Cycling<\/strong><\/td>\n6-8 weeks<\/td>\nHard<\/td>\n\u274c High Risk (daily monitoring required)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Seeded Cycling (Used Media)<\/strong><\/td>\n1-2 weeks<\/td>\nVery Easy<\/td>\n\u2705 Safe with monitoring<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Instant Cycling (Bottled Bacteria)<\/strong><\/td>\n1-7 days<\/td>\nEasy<\/td>\n\u26a0\ufe0f Monitor closely<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Live Plants Method<\/strong><\/td>\n2-4 weeks<\/td>\nModerate<\/td>\n\u2705 Safe with light stocking<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
    \ud83d\udca1 Pro Tip:<\/strong>\u00a0Don’t believe anyone who says you can fully cycle a tank in 24 hours. While bottled bacteria products can speed things up, you still need at least a week for bacterial colonies to establish and stabilize.<\/div>\n

    The Best Way to Cycle Your Aquarium: Fishless Cycling<\/h2>\n

    After reviewing what experts recommend and what actually works in practice,\u00a0fishless cycling is hands-down the best method for beginners<\/strong>. Here’s why:<\/p>\n

      \n
    • No fish suffer or die during the process<\/li>\n
    • You can add a full stock of fish once cycling completes<\/li>\n
    • Much less stressful than daily water changes<\/li>\n
    • More predictable timeline<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Fishless Cycling: Step-by-Step Instructions<\/h3>\n

      What You’ll Need:<\/strong><\/p>\n

        \n
      • Fully set up aquarium with filter running<\/li>\n
      • Aquarium heater (set to 78-82\u00b0F \/ 26-28\u00b0C)<\/li>\n
      • Pure ammonia OR fish food<\/li>\n
      • Water test kit (must test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate)<\/li>\n
      • Patience (4-6 weeks)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        The Process:<\/strong><\/p>\n

          \n
        1. Set up your tank completely:<\/strong>\u00a0Add substrate, decorations, filter, heater. Fill with dechlorinated water. Let filter and heater run for 24 hours.<\/li>\n
        2. Add ammonia source:<\/strong>\n
            \n
          • Method A (Pure Ammonia):<\/strong>\u00a0Add 5 drops per 10 gallons. Test after 1 hour. You want 2-4 ppm ammonia reading.<\/li>\n
          • Method B (Fish Food):<\/strong>\u00a0Add a small pinch (what you’d feed 2-3 fish) every 12 hours.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n
          • Test water every 2-3 days:<\/strong>\u00a0Write down your results. You’re watching for specific patterns.<\/li>\n
          • Week 1-2:<\/strong>\u00a0Ammonia stays high (2-4 ppm). Nitrite = 0. Nitrate = 0.\u00a0This is normal.<\/em><\/li>\n
          • Week 2-3:<\/strong>\u00a0Ammonia drops. Nitrite appears and rises (1-5 ppm). Nitrate starts appearing.\u00a0Bacterial colonies are growing!<\/em><\/li>\n
          • Week 3-6:<\/strong>\u00a0Ammonia drops to 0. Nitrite drops to 0. Nitrate rises (20-40 ppm).\u00a0Almost done!<\/em><\/li>\n
          • Cycle Complete Test:<\/strong>\u00a0Add ammonia to reach 2 ppm. Test after 24 hours. If ammonia = 0 and nitrite = 0, your tank is fully cycled!<\/li>\n
          • Final step:<\/strong>\u00a0Do a 50% water change to remove excess nitrates. Your tank is ready for fish!<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

            \"Beneficial<\/p>\n

            Beneficial bacteria colonize on filter media, substrate, and all aquarium surfaces<\/p>\n

            How to Speed Up the Cycling Process (Legally!)<\/h2>\n

            Want to cycle faster without harming fish? Try these proven methods:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
            Method<\/th>\nHow It Works<\/th>\nTime Saved<\/th>\nCost<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
            Raise Temperature to 80-82\u00b0F<\/strong><\/td>\nBacteria multiply faster in warm water<\/td>\n5-10 days<\/td>\nFree<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Seeded Filter Media<\/strong><\/td>\nBorrow used filter media from established tank<\/td>\n2-4 weeks<\/td>\nFree<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Bottled Bacteria (Seachem Stability, Fritz Zyme 7)<\/strong><\/td>\nAdd live bacteria directly to tank<\/td>\n1-3 weeks<\/td>\n$8-15<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Live Aquarium Plants<\/strong><\/td>\nPlants absorb ammonia and come with bacteria on leaves<\/td>\n1-2 weeks<\/td>\n$15-40<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
            Used Gravel\/Substrate<\/strong><\/td>\nTransfer bacteria-rich substrate from cycled tank<\/td>\n1-2 weeks<\/td>\nFree<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
            \u26a0\ufe0f Warning About Bottled Bacteria:<\/strong>\u00a0Products like Bio-Spira, Tetra SafeStart, and Dr. Tim’s One & Only work, but they’re not magic. You still need to monitor water parameters for at least a week and avoid overstocking. Think of them as a helpful boost, not an instant solution.<\/div>\n

            Fish-In Cycling: Only If You Have No Other Choice<\/h2>\n

            Sometimes life happens. Maybe you received a fish as a surprise gift, or you bought fish before learning about the nitrogen cycle. If fish are already in your uncycled tank, here’s how to keep them alive:<\/p>\n

            Emergency Fish-In Cycling Protocol<\/h3>\n
              \n
            • Test water daily:<\/strong>\u00a0Ammonia and nitrite must be checked every 24 hours<\/li>\n
            • Water changes:<\/strong>\u00a0Change 20-50% water whenever ammonia or nitrite reads above 0.25 ppm<\/li>\n
            • Use Prime:<\/strong>\u00a0Seachem Prime temporarily detoxifies ammonia and nitrite for 24-48 hours<\/li>\n
            • Stop feeding:<\/strong>\u00a0Feed every other day, very small amounts. Less food = less waste = less ammonia<\/li>\n
            • Add bottled bacteria:<\/strong>\u00a0Products like Seachem Stability help establish colonies faster<\/li>\n
            • Increase aeration:<\/strong>\u00a0More oxygen helps fish cope with stress<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
              \u26a0\ufe0f Harsh Reality:<\/strong>\u00a0Fish-in cycling is stressful for fish and you. Many beginners lose fish this way, even when doing everything right. It’s not ideal, but if you’re stuck with it, the protocol above gives your fish the best survival odds.<\/div>\n

              Understanding Your Water Test Results<\/h2>\n

              A test kit is your most important tool during cycling. Here’s how to read and interpret the results:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
              What You See<\/th>\nWhat It Means<\/th>\nWhat to Do<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
              Ammonia: 2-4 ppm
              \nNitrite: 0 ppm
              \nNitrate: 0 ppm<\/td>\n              		Early stage cycling (Week 1-2)<\/td>\nKeep waiting. First bacteria colony is growing.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
              Ammonia: 0-1 ppm
              \nNitrite: 2-5 ppm
              \nNitrate: 5-20 ppm<\/td>\n              		Mid-stage cycling (Week 2-4)<\/td>\nYou’re halfway there! Second bacteria colony is developing.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
              Ammonia: 0 ppm
              \nNitrite: 0 ppm
              \nNitrate: 20-40 ppm<\/td>\n              		\u2705 Cycle complete!<\/td>\nDo 50% water change, then add fish gradually.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
              Ammonia: 0 ppm
              \nNitrite: 0 ppm
              \nNitrate: 80+ ppm<\/td>\n              		Overstocked or infrequent water changes<\/td>\nDo immediate 50% water change. Increase maintenance schedule.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
              Ammonia: 0.25+ ppm
              \n(in established tank)<\/td>\n              		\u26a0\ufe0f Problem! Overfeeding or filter crash<\/td>\nStop feeding 24 hours. Test filter. Do 50% water change.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

              \"Aquarium<\/p>\n

              A quality test kit is essential for monitoring your aquarium’s nitrogen cycle<\/p>\n

              Common Mistakes That Crash Your Cycle (And How to Avoid Them)<\/h2>\n

              1. Cleaning Filter Media with Tap Water<\/h3>\n

              The Mistake:<\/strong>\u00a0You rinse your filter sponges under tap water to “clean” them.<\/p>\n

              Why It’s Deadly:<\/strong>\u00a0Tap water contains chlorine, which instantly kills all beneficial bacteria. Your cycle crashes overnight.<\/p>\n

              The Fix:<\/strong>\u00a0Always rinse filter media in old tank water during water changes. A little dirt is fine \u2013 that’s where the bacteria live!<\/p>\n

              2. Changing Filter Cartridges Too Often<\/h3>\n

              The Mistake:<\/strong>\u00a0You follow the manufacturer’s recommendation to “replace cartridge every month.”<\/p>\n

              Why It’s Deadly:<\/strong>\u00a0You’re literally throwing away your bacterial colony.<\/p>\n

              The Fix:<\/strong>\u00a0Don’t replace cartridges unless they’re falling apart. Most can last 6-12 months. If you must replace, run old and new cartridges together for 2 weeks first.<\/p>\n

              3. Adding Too Many Fish at Once<\/h3>\n

              The Mistake:<\/strong>\u00a0Your tank just finished cycling, so you buy 20 fish in one shopping trip.<\/p>\n

              Why It’s Deadly:<\/strong>\u00a0Your bacterial colony can only handle the ammonia it’s been “trained” on. Suddenly doubling the waste overwhelms the bacteria.<\/p>\n

              The Fix:<\/strong>\u00a0Add 2-3 small fish per week. Give bacteria time to multiply and match the new bioload.<\/p>\n

              4. Forgetting About Plants and Decorations<\/h3>\n

              The Reality:<\/strong>\u00a0Beneficial bacteria don’t just live in your filter. They colonize on:<\/p>\n

                \n
              • Substrate (gravel, sand)<\/li>\n
              • Plant leaves and roots<\/li>\n
              • Decorations and rocks<\/li>\n
              • Glass walls<\/li>\n
              • Even the heater!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                Using Live Plants to Support the Nitrogen Cycle<\/h2>\n

                Here’s a secret many beginners don’t know:\u00a0live aquarium plants are nature’s cheat code for the nitrogen cycle<\/strong>. Here’s why plants are amazing:<\/p>\n

                  \n
                • Plants absorb ammonia directly (before it becomes nitrite)<\/li>\n
                • They consume nitrates as fertilizer<\/li>\n
                • Plant leaves come pre-loaded with beneficial bacteria<\/li>\n
                • They provide oxygen, which helps bacteria multiply faster<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                  Best Beginner Plants for Cycling<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
                  Plant Name<\/th>\nAmmonia Absorption<\/th>\nDifficulty<\/th>\nGrowth Speed<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
                  Amazon Sword<\/strong><\/td>\nHigh<\/td>\nVery Easy<\/td>\nFast<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
                  Anubias<\/strong><\/td>\nModerate<\/td>\nVery Easy<\/td>\nSlow<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
                  Java Fern<\/strong><\/td>\nModerate<\/td>\nVery Easy<\/td>\nModerate<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
                  Hornwort<\/strong><\/td>\nVery High<\/td>\nEasy<\/td>\nVery Fast<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
                  Water Sprite<\/strong><\/td>\nVery High<\/td>\nEasy<\/td>\nVery Fast<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
                  \ud83d\udca1 Plant-Based Cycling Method:<\/strong>\u00a0Set up your tank with heavy planting (fill 40-50% of tank). Run lights 8 hours daily. After 2 weeks, add 2-3 small fish. Monitor ammonia\/nitrite for a week. If readings stay at 0, gradually add more fish. This method combines plant absorption with traditional cycling for faster, safer results.<\/div>\n

                  Maintaining Your Cycle After Setup: Long-Term Care<\/h2>\n

                  Congratulations \u2013 your tank is cycled! But the work isn’t over. Here’s how to maintain a healthy nitrogen cycle for years:<\/p>\n

                  Weekly Maintenance Checklist<\/h3>\n
                    \n
                  • Change 15-25% of water (every 7-10 days)<\/li>\n
                  • Vacuum substrate to remove waste buildup<\/li>\n
                  • Test nitrates (should stay below 40 ppm)<\/li>\n
                  • Check filter flow (clean if water flow slows)<\/li>\n
                  • Remove dead plant leaves and uneaten food<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                    Monthly Maintenance Checklist<\/h3>\n
                      \n
                    • Test pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate<\/li>\n
                    • Gently rinse filter media in old tank water<\/li>\n
                    • Check equipment (heater, filter, air pump)<\/li>\n
                    • Trim overgrown plants<\/li>\n
                    • Clean algae from glass<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                      FAQ: Your Top Nitrogen Cycle Questions Answered<\/h2>\n

                      Q: Can I cycle a tank in 24 hours?<\/h3>\n

                      A:<\/strong>\u00a0Not safely. Even with the best bottled bacteria products (like Bio-Spira or Tetra SafeStart), you need at least 3-7 days for bacterial colonies to establish. Products claiming “instant cycling” are marketing hype. Always test water parameters before adding fish.<\/p>\n

                      Q: My cycle has been stuck at the nitrite stage for 3 weeks. What’s wrong?<\/h3>\n

                      A:<\/strong>\u00a0This is frustratingly common. Try these fixes: (1) Raise temperature to 80-82\u00b0F, (2) Increase surface agitation for more oxygen, (3) Add a pinch of aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons), (4) Verify your pH is between 7.0-8.0 (bacteria grow poorly in acidic water), (5) Add bottled bacteria like Seachem Stability.<\/p>\n

                      Q: Do I need to cycle a planted tank?<\/h3>\n

                      A:<\/strong>\u00a0Yes, but it’s faster and easier. Plants absorb ammonia directly, which means you can often add fish after 2-3 weeks instead of 4-6. However, you still need to test water and add fish gradually.<\/p>\n

                      Q: Can I move fish from a cycled tank to a new tank immediately?<\/h3>\n

                      A:<\/strong>\u00a0No! The new tank has zero beneficial bacteria, even if you move the fish. You need to either: (1) Move 50% of the old filter media to the new tank, or (2) Cycle the new tank separately before moving fish.<\/p>\n

                      Q: My cycled tank suddenly has ammonia readings. Why?<\/h3>\n

                      A:<\/strong>\u00a0Common causes: (1) Dead fish decomposing in the tank, (2) Massive overfeeding, (3) Filter failure or power outage, (4) You cleaned filter media with tap water, (5) Overstocking (too many fish added too fast). Fix: 50% water change immediately, find and remove the cause, test daily until readings stabilize.<\/p>\n

                      Q: Do snails and shrimp count toward bioload during cycling?<\/h3>\n

                      A:<\/strong>\u00a0Yes, but minimally. A few snails or shrimp produce very little ammonia compared to fish. You can add them during cycling \u2013 they’ll actually help by eating decaying matter. Just don’t add 50 snails and expect no impact.<\/p>\n

                      Final Thoughts: Patience Pays Off<\/h2>\n

                      I know waiting 4-6 weeks to add fish feels like forever. You’re excited. The tank looks empty and boring. Your family or roommates keep asking, “Where are the fish?”<\/p>\n

                      But here’s the truth:\u00a0rushing the nitrogen cycle is the #1 reason beginners fail at fishkeeping<\/strong>. I’ve seen it hundreds of times \u2013 someone buys a beautiful tank, gorgeous fish, and within a week, everything is dead. They give up, assuming they’re “bad at keeping fish.”<\/p>\n

                      The reality? They weren’t bad at fishkeeping. They just didn’t understand the nitrogen cycle.<\/p>\n

                      By reading this guide, you’re already ahead of 90% of beginners. You now know:<\/p>\n

                        \n
                      • Why the nitrogen cycle matters for fish survival<\/li>\n
                      • How to cycle a tank properly (fishless method)<\/li>\n
                      • What test results mean and when your tank is safe<\/li>\n
                      • How to maintain the cycle long-term<\/li>\n
                      • Common mistakes and how to avoid them<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
                        \ud83d\udca1 Final Pro Tip:<\/strong>\u00a0Join an aquarium forum or local fishkeeping club. Having experienced hobbyists to ask questions makes the learning curve much easier. We all started as beginners, and the community loves helping newcomers succeed.<\/div>\n

                        Now get out there and cycle that tank the right way. Your future fish will thank you by living long, colorful, healthy lives. You’ve got this!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

                        Setting up your first aquarium?\u00a0You’ve probably heard experienced fishkeepers mention something called the “nitrogen cycle” \u2013 followed by a bunch of confusing scientific terms that make your head spin. Don’t worry. This guide breaks down everything you need to know about the aquarium nitrogen cycle in plain English, so you can set up a healthy…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"default","_kad_post_title":"default","_kad_post_layout":"default","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"default","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"default","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-763","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/763","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=763"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/763\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":765,"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/763\/revisions\/765"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=763"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=763"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bfefishtank.com\/ko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=763"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}