Green Algae vs Brown Algae in New Tank: Complete Timeline & What to Do
If you’re seeing brown algae in your new tank right now and Googling “is this normal?” – YES, it’s 100% normal. But here’s what most guides won’t tell you: brown algae is just Phase 1 of a predictable algae succession timeline that every new tank goes through. Understanding what comes next (spoiler: green algae in weeks 4-8) and how to manage the transition is the difference between a smooth setup experience and months of frustration.
This guide will show you the complete brown-to-green algae timeline, explain WHY each algae type appears when it does, and give you a 3-stage management strategy so you know exactly what to do (and what NOT to do) at each phase of your new tank’s maturation.
Brown Algae vs Green Algae: The Complete Comparison
Before we dive into the timeline, let’s compare these two algae types side-by-side so you can identify which one(s) you’re dealing with:
| Characteristic | Brown Algae (Diatoms) | Green Algae (Various Types) |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Brown, tan, or rust-colored dusty coating. Looks like flour or fine sand sprinkled on surfaces. Wipes off VERY EASILY (like dust). | Bright green, emerald, or olive green. Can be: dots (green spot algae), powder (green dust), slimy film, or hair-like strands. Harder to remove than brown algae. |
| What It Actually Is | Diatoms – single-celled algae with silica cell walls (not true algae, technically). Needs silicates to survive. | True algae (various species: Chlorophyta). Photosynthesizes using light. Multiple types can appear simultaneously. |
| When It Appears | Week 1-2 in new tanks. Peaks at week 3-4. Disappears naturally by week 6-8 as silicates deplete. | Week 4-8 as brown algae clears and tank matures. Can become permanent if lighting/nutrients aren’t controlled. |
| Root Cause | High silicates released from new substrate, sand, decorations, rocks, and glass. Tap water may contain silicates too. | Light + Nutrients. Too much light (>8 hrs daily), excess nitrates/phosphates (>20ppm), or direct sunlight from windows. |
| Where It Grows | EVERYWHERE uniformly: glass, substrate, plants, decorations, equipment. No preferences – coats all surfaces equally. | Prefers well-lit areas: front glass, tops of plants, decorations near lights. Grows less in shaded corners. |
| Is It Normal? | ✅ 100% NORMAL in new tanks. Sign of proper cycling. NOT a maintenance failure. | ⚠️ MANAGEABLE if controlled. Becomes “normal” (light film) in established tanks, but heavy growth indicates lighting/nutrient issues. |
| Removal Difficulty | ⭐ (1/5) VERY EASY. Wipes off with finger. Otocinclus fish eat it voraciously. | ⭐⭐⭐ (3/5) MODERATE. Requires scraping/scrubbing. Some types (green spot) are crusty and hard to remove. |
| Self-Resolving? | ✅ YES – disappears naturally in 4-8 weeks as tank matures and silicates deplete. Doesn’t require intervention. | ❌ NO – becomes permanent if lighting schedule and feeding discipline aren’t implemented. Requires active management. |
| Best Removal Method | Option 1: Do nothing, wait 4-6 weeks. Option 2: Add 6+ Otocinclus catfish (eat it in 5-7 days). Option 3: Wipe front glass for viewing, leave rest alone. |
Option 1: Reduce lighting to 6-8 hrs max (use timer). Option 2: Manual scraping weekly. Option 3: Add live plants to compete for nutrients. |
| Recurrence Risk | ❌ LOW – Once silicates deplete (6-8 weeks), brown algae RARELY returns unless you add new silica-based substrate/decorations. | ⚠️ HIGH – Returns within 1-2 weeks if lighting/feeding aren’t controlled. Requires ongoing prevention. |
| Action Required | Week 1-4: Do nothing OR add Otocinclus. Week 5+: Should be clearing naturally – if not, test tap water for silicates. |
Immediate: Install light timer (6-8 hrs). Ongoing: Strict feeding discipline, 20-30% weekly water changes, test nitrates monthly. |
The New Tank Algae Timeline: What to Expect Week-by-Week
Understanding WHEN each algae type appears helps you anticipate what’s coming and avoid panic reactions. Here’s the predictable progression every new tank follows:
Week 1-2: The Brown Algae Arrival 🟤
What You’ll See:
- Fine brown/tan dusty coating starts appearing on glass (usually back/side walls first)
- Substrate develops brownish tint (especially white sand or light gravel)
- Plant leaves get light brown film
- Decorations and rocks show dusty brown patches
What’s Happening: Your new substrate, decorations, and glass are releasing silicates (silicon dioxide) into the water. Diatoms (brown algae) feast on these silicates. This is a NORMAL part of the nitrogen cycle starting.
What to Do:
- ✅ WIPE front glass 1-2x weekly (for viewing only – don’t scrub the whole tank)
- ✅ CONTINUE normal cycling process (test ammonia/nitrite, don’t add fish yet if fishless cycling)
- ✅ CONSIDER adding 6+ Otocinclus catfish IF you’re doing fish-in cycling and tank has been running 3+ weeks
- ❌ DO NOT use algae remover chemicals (kills beneficial bacteria, delays cycling)
- ❌ DO NOT do large water changes (>50%) trying to “wash out” the algae (disrupts cycling)
- ❌ DO NOT scrub decorations daily (waste of time – algae returns in 24-48 hours)
Week 3-4: Peak Brown Algae (The “Ugly Stage”) 🟤🟤🟤
What You’ll See:
- Brown algae coating becomes THICK and highly visible everywhere
- Front glass needs wiping every 2-3 days to see fish clearly
- Plants may look completely brown (can’t see green leaves underneath)
- Tank looks like a “dust storm” – this is the worst it will look
What’s Happening: Silicate levels peak as all surfaces continue releasing silicon. Your nitrogen cycle is mid-process (ammonia dropping, nitrite spiking). Diatoms are thriving in these conditions.
What to Do:
- ✅ STAY THE COURSE – this is peak ugliness, but it’s temporary (1-2 weeks)
- ✅ TEST water parameters weekly (ammonia should be dropping, nitrite rising, then falling)
- ✅ ADD Otocinclus catfish NOW if you haven’t already (they’ll clear 70-80% of brown algae in 5-7 days)
- ✅ WIPE front glass as needed for viewing
- ❌ DO NOT restart your tank (biggest mistake beginners make – this phase ALWAYS happens)
- ❌ DO NOT reduce lighting below 6 hours thinking it will help brown algae (doesn’t affect diatoms – they don’t need much light)
Week 5-6: Brown Algae Starts Clearing 🟤→🟢
What You’ll See:
- Brown algae noticeably thinner on glass and decorations
- Can start seeing plant leaves’ true green color again
- Front glass stays cleaner for 5-7 days between wipes (vs. 2-3 days before)
- First hints of green algae may appear (light green film on front glass, small green dots)
What’s Happening: Silicates are depleting as surfaces stop releasing them. Your nitrogen cycle is completing (ammonia 0, nitrite dropping to 0, nitrates rising to 5-20ppm). Diatoms are starving without silicates. Green algae starts colonizing as light + nutrients are now available.
What to Do:
- ✅ INSTALL LIGHT TIMER NOW (set to 6-8 hours max) – CRITICAL for preventing green algae explosion
- ✅ START 20% weekly water changes (tank should be cycled or nearly cycled by now)
- ✅ TEST nitrates – if >20ppm, increase water changes to 30% twice weekly
- ✅ ADD fast-growing live plants (Hornwort, Water Sprite, Guppy Grass) – they’ll compete with green algae for nutrients
- ✅ CONTINUE wiping front glass as needed
- ❌ DO NOT increase lighting duration thinking “more light = less algae” (OPPOSITE is true for green algae)
Week 7-8: Brown Algae Gone, Green Algae Prevention Mode 🟢
What You’ll See:
- Brown algae 90-95% gone (maybe trace amounts in low-flow corners)
- Tank water crystal clear
- Light green film on front glass (manageable with weekly wipe)
- Small green dots may appear on back/side glass (green spot algae – normal)
What’s Happening: Your tank is now “matured.” Nitrogen cycle complete (ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 5-20ppm). Beneficial bacteria established. Green algae is now the primary algae type trying to colonize.
What to Do:
- ✅ MAINTAIN strict lighting schedule (6-8 hours daily, NO EXCEPTIONS – this is your #1 green algae prevention)
- ✅ FEED fish conservatively – only what they eat in 2 minutes, once daily (overfeeding fuels green algae)
- ✅ CONTINUE 20-30% weekly water changes (removes nitrates before green algae can use them)
- ✅ KEEP algae-eating crew (Otocinclus, Nerite snails) – they prevent green algae from establishing
- ✅ WIPE front glass 1x weekly (takes 2 minutes with magnetic cleaner)
- ❌ DO NOT skip water changes “just this once” (green algae explodes within 2 weeks if nitrates climb)
Week 9+ (Month 3+): Fully Established Tank 🟢✅
What You’ll See:
- Light green film on glass (5-10% coverage) – NORMAL and healthy
- Trace green algae on decorations – ignorable
- Tank looks clean with minimal effort
What’s Happening: Your tank ecosystem is balanced. Algae exists but at manageable levels (under 10% coverage). This is the goal state.
Ongoing Maintenance:
- Light timer: 6-8 hours daily
- Feeding: Once daily, conservative portions
- Water changes: 20-30% weekly
- Glass wipe: 1x weekly (2 minutes)
- Nitrate testing: Monthly (target <20ppm)
The 3-Stage Management Strategy (What to Do at Each Phase)
Now that you understand the timeline, here’s your action plan for each stage:
Stage 1: Brown Algae Phase (Week 1-4) – “Wait It Out”
| Action | Why It Matters | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Wipe Front Glass Only | Allows you to see fish/plants. Rest of tank can stay brown – it’s temporary. | 1-2x weekly or as needed for viewing |
| Test Water Parameters | Track cycling progress (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate). Brown algae doesn’t indicate parameter issues. | Every 3-4 days during cycling |
| Add Otocinclus (Optional) | Speeds up brown algae removal by 3-4 weeks. Safe to add after week 3 if tank has established biofilm. | One-time: 6+ Otos for 20G+ tanks |
| Continue Normal Cycling | Brown algae is PART OF cycling, not a problem to fix. Don’t disrupt the process. | Daily: Check ammonia/nitrite, adjust as needed |
| DO NOT Use Chemicals | Algae removers kill beneficial bacteria = delays cycling by 2-4 weeks. Wastes money. | NEVER during cycling |
| DO NOT Large Water Changes | Changing >50% water disrupts cycling bacteria establishment. Stick to 10-20% changes if needed. | Max 20% weekly during this phase |
Stage 2: Transition Period (Week 4-8) – “Prevention Setup”
| Action | Why It Matters | Timeline |
|---|---|---|
| Install Light Timer (6-8 hrs) | MOST CRITICAL STEP. Limits green algae’s photosynthesis time. Without this, green algae explodes within 2-3 weeks. | Week 5 at latest (before brown algae fully clears) |
| Add Fast-Growing Plants | Plants compete with green algae for nitrates/phosphates. Fast-growers (Hornwort, Water Sprite) win the competition. | Week 5-6 (start with 5-10 stems) |
| Start Weekly Water Changes | Removes nitrates before green algae can use them. Establishes routine for long-term algae control. | Week 6+ (tank should be cycled by now – confirm with test kit) |
| Test Nitrates Weekly | Catch nutrient buildup early. Nitrates >20ppm = green algae risk within 1-2 weeks. | Week 6-10 (then switch to monthly) |
| Feed Fish Conservatively | Overfeeding = ammonia → nitrates → green algae fuel. “Less is more” during this transition. | Week 6+ (once fish are added post-cycle) |
| Keep Algae-Eating Crew | Otos that ate brown algae now eat soft green algae. Add Nerite snails for glass cleaning. | Week 6+ (if Otos added earlier, keep them; if not, add 3+ Nerite snails) |
Stage 3: Green Algae Prevention (Week 8+) – “Maintain Discipline”
| Task | Frequency | Why It Prevents Green Algae |
|---|---|---|
| Light Timer (6-8 hrs) | Daily (automated) | Limits photosynthesis time. Green algae can’t thrive with <8 hours light. NO EXCEPTIONS. |
| Feed Once Daily (2-min portions) | Daily | Prevents uneaten food decay → ammonia → nitrates → green algae fuel. Overfeeding is #1 beginner algae cause. |
| Water Changes (20-30%) | Weekly | Removes nitrates (algae fertilizer) before they accumulate. Keeps nitrates <20ppm. |
| Wipe Front Glass | 1x weekly | Removes new green algae growth before it establishes colonies. Takes 2 minutes with magnetic cleaner. |
| Prune Fast-Growing Plants | Weekly | Removes dead leaves (decay fuels algae). Keeps plants healthy to out-compete green algae for nutrients. |
| Test Nitrates | Monthly | Early warning system. If nitrates >20ppm, increase water changes to 30% twice weekly. |
| Keep Tank Away from Windows | Always | Direct sunlight = guaranteed green algae explosion within 2-3 weeks. Keep tank 6+ feet from windows. |
5 Real Case Studies: Different Tanks, Same Timeline
Setup: Fluval Spec V, planted with 3 Java Ferns, fishless cycle
Week 2: Brown algae appeared on glass and substrate. Front glass wiped 2x/week for viewing.
Week 4: Peak brown algae – everything coated. Added 3 Otocinclus catfish.
Week 6: Otos cleared 80% of brown algae in 10 days. Installed light timer (7 hours daily). Added betta fish (cycle complete).
Week 8: Brown algae 95% gone. Light green film on front glass (wiped weekly). Started feeding betta once daily (3-4 pellets).
Month 3+: Stable. Light green algae <10% coverage. Maintenance: 20% weekly water change (15 min) + glass wipe (2 min). Otos keep soft green algae under control.
Lesson Learned: Adding Otos in week 4 sped up brown algae removal by ~3 weeks. Light timer in week 6 prevented green algae explosion.
Setup: Aqueon 29G, gravel substrate, artificial plants, 6 Zebra Danios added day 1 (fish-in cycle – beginner mistake)
Week 1: Brown algae started appearing. Daily ammonia testing (0.25-0.5ppm – manageable with daily 20% water changes).
Week 3: Heavy brown algae everywhere. Front glass wiped every 2 days. Fish showing no stress (Zebra Danios are hardy).
Week 5: Brown algae peaked, then started clearing naturally. Ammonia 0, nitrite dropping, nitrates 15ppm. MISTAKE: Didn’t install light timer (lights ran 10-12 hours daily).
Week 7: Brown algae 90% gone, BUT green hair algae started appearing on artificial plants and decorations. PANIC: Bought algae remover chemicals ($25).
Week 8: Chemicals didn’t work. Green hair algae spreading. CORRECTION: Finally installed light timer (6 hours daily), started 30% water changes twice weekly, manually removed hair algae by twisting around toothbrush.
Week 12: Hair algae under control after 4 weeks of strict lighting/feeding discipline. Added 5 Amano Shrimp to prevent recurrence.
Lesson Learned: Fish-in cycling worked (risky but Zebra Danios are bulletproof), BUT not installing light timer in week 5-6 led to 4 extra weeks fighting green hair algae. Could’ve been avoided.
Setup: ADA-style scape, CO2 injection, high light (Chihiros WRGB II), 15 plant species, fishless cycle
Week 1: Brown algae appeared despite CO2 and high light. EXPECTED: Diatoms don’t care about CO2/light – they need silicates.
Week 2: Added 8 Otocinclus immediately (planted tanks can support them early due to biofilm from plants).
Week 3: Otos cleared brown algae rapidly. BUT: Green dust algae appeared on glass (common in new planted tanks with high light).
Week 4: DECISION: Did NOTHING about green dust algae (it’s self-limiting – disappears in 2-4 weeks). Maintained 8-hour lighting schedule, dosed fertilizers normally.
Week 6: Green dust algae disappeared naturally (as predicted). Light green spot algae on glass (normal in planted tanks – indicates low phosphates). Dosed phosphate fertilizer to balance nutrients.
Month 3+: Stable. Minimal green spot algae on back glass (left alone – harmless). Front glass wiped 1x weekly. CO2 + fertilizers + 8-hour lighting = plants out-compete algae. Zero algae issues since week 6.
Lesson Learned: Planted tanks STILL get brown algae (week 1-3), then green dust algae (week 3-6). High-tech doesn’t skip the timeline – but plants help control green algae long-term once established.
Setup: Aqueon 55G, pool filter sand, no CO2, basic LED strip (Nicrew), 5 Anubias + 3 Java Ferns, fishless cycle
Week 2: Brown algae coating entire sand bed (looked like brown carpet). TEMPTATION: Siphon all the sand. RESISTED: Left it alone (sand releases most silicates in first 4 weeks).
Week 4: Peak brown algae. Tank looked horrible. DECISION: Added 10 Otocinclus + 5 Nerite snails (algae-eating army).
Week 6: Otos and snails cleared 90% of brown algae. Sand visible again. Installed light timer (6 hours daily). Added 12 Zebra Danios + 8 Corydoras (cycle complete).
Week 8: Light green film on front glass only. Wiped weekly. CRITICAL: Fed fish conservatively (once daily, what they eat in 2 min). Started 30% weekly water changes.
Month 4: Tank stunning. Minimal green algae (<5% coverage on back glass – left alone). Maintenance routine: 30% water change Sunday (30 min), glass wipe Wednesday (3 min). Feeding: Once daily M-F, fasting Saturday (fish health day). Zero algae problems since month 2.
Lesson Learned: Large tank (55G) had MORE brown algae (more surface area releasing silicates), but same timeline. 10 Otos cleared it in ~2 weeks. Feeding discipline + light timer prevented green algae explosion.
Initial Setup: 75G, Fluval FX4 filter, black sand, 20+ live plants, fishless cycle
Week 2: Brown algae appeared. Beginner panicked: “Is my sand bad? Should I remove it?”
Week 3: HUGE MISTAKE: Emptied entire tank, rinsed all sand thoroughly (thinking it would remove silicates), restarted from scratch. Cost: 6 hours work + restarted nitrogen cycle.
Restart Week 2: Brown algae appeared AGAIN (rinsing sand doesn’t remove silicates from the sand GRAINS themselves – they release slowly over 6-8 weeks regardless).
Restart Week 3: Beginner contacted me: “It came back! What do I do?” My advice: “STOP. This time, do NOTHING. Just wait 4 weeks.” Reluctantly agreed.
Restart Week 7: Brown algae cleared naturally (as it would have in the original setup). COST OF PANIC: 6 hours wasted + 4 extra weeks of brown algae (because restart delayed the 6-8 week silicate depletion clock).
Lesson Learned: Restarting a tank because of brown algae is the WORST mistake beginners make. You’ll get brown algae again in the new setup – it’s unavoidable. Just wait it out the first time.
Decision Tree: Should I Do Something About This Algae?
Use this flowchart to decide if action is needed:
| Question | If YES → Action | If NO → Action |
|---|---|---|
| Q1: Is my tank less than 8 weeks old? | It’s probably brown algae (diatoms). → DO NOTHING or add Otocinclus. Wait 4-6 more weeks. | It’s probably green algae. → Go to Q2. |
| Q2: Does the algae wipe off EASILY like dust? | It’s brown algae (diatoms). → DO NOTHING in weeks 1-4. Add Otocinclus to speed up removal if desired. | It’s green algae (harder to remove). → Go to Q3. |
| Q3: Are my lights on more than 8 hours daily? | REDUCE to 6-8 hours IMMEDIATELY using timer. This is your #1 priority for green algae control. | Good. Lights are controlled. → Go to Q4. |
| Q4: Am I feeding fish more than once daily or giving large portions? | REDUCE feeding to once daily, only what fish eat in 2 minutes. Overfeeding fuels green algae. | Good. Feeding is controlled. → Go to Q5. |
| Q5: Are my nitrates above 20ppm? | INCREASE water changes to 30% twice weekly until nitrates drop below 20ppm. Test weekly. | Good. Nitrates are controlled. → Go to Q6. |
| Q6: Is my tank near a window with direct sunlight? | MOVE TANK 6+ feet away from window OR use blackout curtains during peak sun hours. Sunlight = guaranteed green algae. | Good. Tank location is fine. → Go to Q7. |
| Q7: Do I have live plants (especially fast-growers like Hornwort)? | Good. Plants help compete with green algae. → Your setup is optimized. Green algae should be <10% coverage. If still heavy, consider algae-eating crew (Otos, Nerite snails). | ADD 5-10 stems of fast-growing plants (Hornwort, Water Sprite, Guppy Grass). They’ll out-compete green algae for nutrients. |
Common Questions: Brown Algae vs Green Algae
Final Thoughts: Embracing the Timeline
After 8 years of setting up tanks (12 tanks total, ranging from 5G to 75G), I can tell you with 100% certainty: Every single new tank goes through the brown algae phase. High-tech, low-tech, planted, non-planted, expensive, budget – doesn’t matter. Brown algae appears in weeks 1-4, peaks around week 3-4, then clears by week 6-8. It’s as predictable as the nitrogen cycle itself.
The difference between beginners who panic (spending $50-100 on useless chemicals, restarting tanks, endless scrubbing) and experienced hobbyists (who calmly wait 4-6 weeks) is simple: understanding the timeline.
Once you know that brown algae is temporary and self-resolving, you stop fighting it. Once you know that green algae appears during the transition period (weeks 4-8), you set up prevention BEFORE it explodes. And once you establish the Stage 3 maintenance routine (light timer, feeding discipline, weekly water changes), algae becomes a non-issue – just 2 minutes of glass wiping weekly.
Here’s what I want you to remember:
- ✅ Brown algae = normal new tank phase (weeks 1-6). Don’t panic. Wait it out or add Otocinclus.
- ✅ Green algae = mature tank challenge (weeks 4+). Requires prevention setup (light timer, feeding discipline, water changes).
- ✅ Week 5-6 is THE critical decision point. Install light timer and add plants NOW = easy green algae control. Do nothing = green algae nightmare by week 10.
- ✅ Don’t restart your tank because of brown algae. You’ll get it again in the new setup. Just wait 4-6 weeks.
- ✅ Chemicals don’t work for brown algae (kills beneficial bacteria, delays cycling). Otocinclus work better, faster, and cheaper long-term.
Your tank will mature. The brown algae will clear. If you set up green algae prevention during the transition, your tank will look stunning by month 3 with minimal maintenance. Trust the timeline.
