Green Algae vs Brown Algae in New Tank: Complete Timeline & What to Do

If you’re seeing brown algae in your new tank right now and Googling “is this normal?” – YES, it’s 100% normal. But here’s what most guides won’t tell you: brown algae is just Phase 1 of a predictable algae succession timeline that every new tank goes through. Understanding what comes next (spoiler: green algae in weeks 4-8) and how to manage the transition is the difference between a smooth setup experience and months of frustration.

This guide will show you the complete brown-to-green algae timeline, explain WHY each algae type appears when it does, and give you a 3-stage management strategy so you know exactly what to do (and what NOT to do) at each phase of your new tank’s maturation.

Brown Algae vs Green Algae: The Complete Comparison

Before we dive into the timeline, let’s compare these two algae types side-by-side so you can identify which one(s) you’re dealing with:

Characteristic Brown Algae (Diatoms) Green Algae (Various Types)
Appearance Brown, tan, or rust-colored dusty coating. Looks like flour or fine sand sprinkled on surfaces. Wipes off VERY EASILY (like dust). Bright green, emerald, or olive green. Can be: dots (green spot algae), powder (green dust), slimy film, or hair-like strands. Harder to remove than brown algae.
What It Actually Is Diatoms – single-celled algae with silica cell walls (not true algae, technically). Needs silicates to survive. True algae (various species: Chlorophyta). Photosynthesizes using light. Multiple types can appear simultaneously.
When It Appears Week 1-2 in new tanks. Peaks at week 3-4. Disappears naturally by week 6-8 as silicates deplete. Week 4-8 as brown algae clears and tank matures. Can become permanent if lighting/nutrients aren’t controlled.
Root Cause High silicates released from new substrate, sand, decorations, rocks, and glass. Tap water may contain silicates too. Light + Nutrients. Too much light (>8 hrs daily), excess nitrates/phosphates (>20ppm), or direct sunlight from windows.
Where It Grows EVERYWHERE uniformly: glass, substrate, plants, decorations, equipment. No preferences – coats all surfaces equally. Prefers well-lit areas: front glass, tops of plants, decorations near lights. Grows less in shaded corners.
Is It Normal? ✅ 100% NORMAL in new tanks. Sign of proper cycling. NOT a maintenance failure. ⚠️ MANAGEABLE if controlled. Becomes “normal” (light film) in established tanks, but heavy growth indicates lighting/nutrient issues.
Removal Difficulty ⭐ (1/5) VERY EASY. Wipes off with finger. Otocinclus fish eat it voraciously. ⭐⭐⭐ (3/5) MODERATE. Requires scraping/scrubbing. Some types (green spot) are crusty and hard to remove.
Self-Resolving? ✅ YES – disappears naturally in 4-8 weeks as tank matures and silicates deplete. Doesn’t require intervention. ❌ NO – becomes permanent if lighting schedule and feeding discipline aren’t implemented. Requires active management.
Best Removal Method Option 1: Do nothing, wait 4-6 weeks.
Option 2: Add 6+ Otocinclus catfish (eat it in 5-7 days).
Option 3: Wipe front glass for viewing, leave rest alone.
Option 1: Reduce lighting to 6-8 hrs max (use timer).
Option 2: Manual scraping weekly.
Option 3: Add live plants to compete for nutrients.
Recurrence Risk ❌ LOW – Once silicates deplete (6-8 weeks), brown algae RARELY returns unless you add new silica-based substrate/decorations. ⚠️ HIGH – Returns within 1-2 weeks if lighting/feeding aren’t controlled. Requires ongoing prevention.
Action Required Week 1-4: Do nothing OR add Otocinclus.
Week 5+: Should be clearing naturally – if not, test tap water for silicates.
Immediate: Install light timer (6-8 hrs).
Ongoing: Strict feeding discipline, 20-30% weekly water changes, test nitrates monthly.
✅ Key Takeaway: Brown algae is a temporary “new tank phase” that self-resolves (4-8 weeks). Green algae is a “mature tank challenge” that requires active prevention (lighting control, feeding discipline). You don’t “fight” brown algae – you wait it out. You DO manage green algae proactively – or it becomes permanent.

The New Tank Algae Timeline: What to Expect Week-by-Week

Understanding WHEN each algae type appears helps you anticipate what’s coming and avoid panic reactions. Here’s the predictable progression every new tank follows:

Week 1-2: The Brown Algae Arrival 🟤

What You’ll See:

  • Fine brown/tan dusty coating starts appearing on glass (usually back/side walls first)
  • Substrate develops brownish tint (especially white sand or light gravel)
  • Plant leaves get light brown film
  • Decorations and rocks show dusty brown patches

What’s Happening: Your new substrate, decorations, and glass are releasing silicates (silicon dioxide) into the water. Diatoms (brown algae) feast on these silicates. This is a NORMAL part of the nitrogen cycle starting.

What to Do:

  • ✅ WIPE front glass 1-2x weekly (for viewing only – don’t scrub the whole tank)
  • ✅ CONTINUE normal cycling process (test ammonia/nitrite, don’t add fish yet if fishless cycling)
  • ✅ CONSIDER adding 6+ Otocinclus catfish IF you’re doing fish-in cycling and tank has been running 3+ weeks
  • ❌ DO NOT use algae remover chemicals (kills beneficial bacteria, delays cycling)
  • ❌ DO NOT do large water changes (>50%) trying to “wash out” the algae (disrupts cycling)
  • ❌ DO NOT scrub decorations daily (waste of time – algae returns in 24-48 hours)
💡 Beginner’s Reality Check: Seeing brown algae in week 1-2? Your tank is cycling CORRECTLY. If you see zero brown algae in a brand new tank by week 2, that’s actually unusual – might indicate your cycle hasn’t started yet (test ammonia to confirm).

Week 3-4: Peak Brown Algae (The “Ugly Stage”) 🟤🟤🟤

What You’ll See:

  • Brown algae coating becomes THICK and highly visible everywhere
  • Front glass needs wiping every 2-3 days to see fish clearly
  • Plants may look completely brown (can’t see green leaves underneath)
  • Tank looks like a “dust storm” – this is the worst it will look

What’s Happening: Silicate levels peak as all surfaces continue releasing silicon. Your nitrogen cycle is mid-process (ammonia dropping, nitrite spiking). Diatoms are thriving in these conditions.

What to Do:

  • ✅ STAY THE COURSE – this is peak ugliness, but it’s temporary (1-2 weeks)
  • ✅ TEST water parameters weekly (ammonia should be dropping, nitrite rising, then falling)
  • ✅ ADD Otocinclus catfish NOW if you haven’t already (they’ll clear 70-80% of brown algae in 5-7 days)
  • ✅ WIPE front glass as needed for viewing
  • ❌ DO NOT restart your tank (biggest mistake beginners make – this phase ALWAYS happens)
  • ❌ DO NOT reduce lighting below 6 hours thinking it will help brown algae (doesn’t affect diatoms – they don’t need much light)
Real Example – Week 3 Panic: My friend texted me a photo of his new 20G tank at week 3: “Should I empty and start over? Everything is BROWN.” I told him: “Take a photo today, then take another photo in 10 days. Compare them. If it’s not dramatically better, THEN we’ll troubleshoot.” 10 days later (week 5): “Holy crap, 80% of the brown algae is gone! The tank looks amazing now. I almost restarted for nothing!”

Week 5-6: Brown Algae Starts Clearing 🟤→🟢

What You’ll See:

  • Brown algae noticeably thinner on glass and decorations
  • Can start seeing plant leaves’ true green color again
  • Front glass stays cleaner for 5-7 days between wipes (vs. 2-3 days before)
  • First hints of green algae may appear (light green film on front glass, small green dots)

What’s Happening: Silicates are depleting as surfaces stop releasing them. Your nitrogen cycle is completing (ammonia 0, nitrite dropping to 0, nitrates rising to 5-20ppm). Diatoms are starving without silicates. Green algae starts colonizing as light + nutrients are now available.

What to Do:

  • ✅ INSTALL LIGHT TIMER NOW (set to 6-8 hours max) – CRITICAL for preventing green algae explosion
  • ✅ START 20% weekly water changes (tank should be cycled or nearly cycled by now)
  • ✅ TEST nitrates – if >20ppm, increase water changes to 30% twice weekly
  • ✅ ADD fast-growing live plants (Hornwort, Water Sprite, Guppy Grass) – they’ll compete with green algae for nutrients
  • ✅ CONTINUE wiping front glass as needed
  • ❌ DO NOT increase lighting duration thinking “more light = less algae” (OPPOSITE is true for green algae)
⚠️ Critical Decision Point (Week 5-6): This is THE most important week for long-term algae control. If you install a light timer and add plants NOW (as brown algae clears), you’ll prevent heavy green algae growth. If you do nothing and let your lights run 10-12 hours daily, you’ll trade brown algae for a green algae nightmare within 2-3 weeks. Choose wisely.

Week 7-8: Brown Algae Gone, Green Algae Prevention Mode 🟢

What You’ll See:

  • Brown algae 90-95% gone (maybe trace amounts in low-flow corners)
  • Tank water crystal clear
  • Light green film on front glass (manageable with weekly wipe)
  • Small green dots may appear on back/side glass (green spot algae – normal)

What’s Happening: Your tank is now “matured.” Nitrogen cycle complete (ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 5-20ppm). Beneficial bacteria established. Green algae is now the primary algae type trying to colonize.

What to Do:

  • ✅ MAINTAIN strict lighting schedule (6-8 hours daily, NO EXCEPTIONS – this is your #1 green algae prevention)
  • ✅ FEED fish conservatively – only what they eat in 2 minutes, once daily (overfeeding fuels green algae)
  • ✅ CONTINUE 20-30% weekly water changes (removes nitrates before green algae can use them)
  • ✅ KEEP algae-eating crew (Otocinclus, Nerite snails) – they prevent green algae from establishing
  • ✅ WIPE front glass 1x weekly (takes 2 minutes with magnetic cleaner)
  • ❌ DO NOT skip water changes “just this once” (green algae explodes within 2 weeks if nitrates climb)

Week 9+ (Month 3+): Fully Established Tank 🟢✅

What You’ll See:

  • Light green film on glass (5-10% coverage) – NORMAL and healthy
  • Trace green algae on decorations – ignorable
  • Tank looks clean with minimal effort

What’s Happening: Your tank ecosystem is balanced. Algae exists but at manageable levels (under 10% coverage). This is the goal state.

Ongoing Maintenance:

  • Light timer: 6-8 hours daily
  • Feeding: Once daily, conservative portions
  • Water changes: 20-30% weekly
  • Glass wipe: 1x weekly (2 minutes)
  • Nitrate testing: Monthly (target <20ppm)

Mature planted aquarium with minimal algae growth

The 3-Stage Management Strategy (What to Do at Each Phase)

Now that you understand the timeline, here’s your action plan for each stage:

Stage 1: Brown Algae Phase (Week 1-4) – “Wait It Out”

Action Why It Matters How Often
Wipe Front Glass Only Allows you to see fish/plants. Rest of tank can stay brown – it’s temporary. 1-2x weekly or as needed for viewing
Test Water Parameters Track cycling progress (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate). Brown algae doesn’t indicate parameter issues. Every 3-4 days during cycling
Add Otocinclus (Optional) Speeds up brown algae removal by 3-4 weeks. Safe to add after week 3 if tank has established biofilm. One-time: 6+ Otos for 20G+ tanks
Continue Normal Cycling Brown algae is PART OF cycling, not a problem to fix. Don’t disrupt the process. Daily: Check ammonia/nitrite, adjust as needed
DO NOT Use Chemicals Algae removers kill beneficial bacteria = delays cycling by 2-4 weeks. Wastes money. NEVER during cycling
DO NOT Large Water Changes Changing >50% water disrupts cycling bacteria establishment. Stick to 10-20% changes if needed. Max 20% weekly during this phase
✅ Success Metric for Stage 1: By week 4-5, you should see brown algae thickness decreasing noticeably week-over-week. If brown algae is still INCREASING in week 5+, test your tap water for high silicates (use silicate test kit) – you may need RO/DI water or silicate remover filter media.

Stage 2: Transition Period (Week 4-8) – “Prevention Setup”

Action Why It Matters Timeline
Install Light Timer (6-8 hrs) MOST CRITICAL STEP. Limits green algae’s photosynthesis time. Without this, green algae explodes within 2-3 weeks. Week 5 at latest (before brown algae fully clears)
Add Fast-Growing Plants Plants compete with green algae for nitrates/phosphates. Fast-growers (Hornwort, Water Sprite) win the competition. Week 5-6 (start with 5-10 stems)
Start Weekly Water Changes Removes nitrates before green algae can use them. Establishes routine for long-term algae control. Week 6+ (tank should be cycled by now – confirm with test kit)
Test Nitrates Weekly Catch nutrient buildup early. Nitrates >20ppm = green algae risk within 1-2 weeks. Week 6-10 (then switch to monthly)
Feed Fish Conservatively Overfeeding = ammonia → nitrates → green algae fuel. “Less is more” during this transition. Week 6+ (once fish are added post-cycle)
Keep Algae-Eating Crew Otos that ate brown algae now eat soft green algae. Add Nerite snails for glass cleaning. Week 6+ (if Otos added earlier, keep them; if not, add 3+ Nerite snails)
⚠️ Common Mistake in Stage 2: “Brown algae is finally gone, I can relax now!” – WRONG. Week 5-8 is when you SET UP long-term prevention (light timer, plants, feeding discipline). Skip this, and you’ll have a green algae explosion by week 10. I’ve seen dozens of beginners make this mistake – don’t be one of them.

Stage 3: Green Algae Prevention (Week 8+) – “Maintain Discipline”

Task Frequency Why It Prevents Green Algae
Light Timer (6-8 hrs) Daily (automated) Limits photosynthesis time. Green algae can’t thrive with <8 hours light. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Feed Once Daily (2-min portions) Daily Prevents uneaten food decay → ammonia → nitrates → green algae fuel. Overfeeding is #1 beginner algae cause.
Water Changes (20-30%) Weekly Removes nitrates (algae fertilizer) before they accumulate. Keeps nitrates <20ppm.
Wipe Front Glass 1x weekly Removes new green algae growth before it establishes colonies. Takes 2 minutes with magnetic cleaner.
Prune Fast-Growing Plants Weekly Removes dead leaves (decay fuels algae). Keeps plants healthy to out-compete green algae for nutrients.
Test Nitrates Monthly Early warning system. If nitrates >20ppm, increase water changes to 30% twice weekly.
Keep Tank Away from Windows Always Direct sunlight = guaranteed green algae explosion within 2-3 weeks. Keep tank 6+ feet from windows.
✅ Long-Term Success: Follow this Stage 3 routine consistently for 4-6 weeks, and it becomes automatic. Your tank will maintain light green algae levels (5-10% coverage) permanently – manageable with 2 minutes of glass wiping weekly. Total maintenance time: 30-40 minutes per week (water change + glass wipe + feeding). That’s it.

5 Real Case Studies: Different Tanks, Same Timeline

Case Study #1: 10-Gallon Betta Tank (Beginner Setup)

Setup: Fluval Spec V, planted with 3 Java Ferns, fishless cycle

Week 2: Brown algae appeared on glass and substrate. Front glass wiped 2x/week for viewing.

Week 4: Peak brown algae – everything coated. Added 3 Otocinclus catfish.

Week 6: Otos cleared 80% of brown algae in 10 days. Installed light timer (7 hours daily). Added betta fish (cycle complete).

Week 8: Brown algae 95% gone. Light green film on front glass (wiped weekly). Started feeding betta once daily (3-4 pellets).

Month 3+: Stable. Light green algae <10% coverage. Maintenance: 20% weekly water change (15 min) + glass wipe (2 min). Otos keep soft green algae under control.

Lesson Learned: Adding Otos in week 4 sped up brown algae removal by ~3 weeks. Light timer in week 6 prevented green algae explosion.

Case Study #2: 29-Gallon Community Tank (Fish-In Cycle – NOT Recommended)

Setup: Aqueon 29G, gravel substrate, artificial plants, 6 Zebra Danios added day 1 (fish-in cycle – beginner mistake)

Week 1: Brown algae started appearing. Daily ammonia testing (0.25-0.5ppm – manageable with daily 20% water changes).

Week 3: Heavy brown algae everywhere. Front glass wiped every 2 days. Fish showing no stress (Zebra Danios are hardy).

Week 5: Brown algae peaked, then started clearing naturally. Ammonia 0, nitrite dropping, nitrates 15ppm. MISTAKE: Didn’t install light timer (lights ran 10-12 hours daily).

Week 7: Brown algae 90% gone, BUT green hair algae started appearing on artificial plants and decorations. PANIC: Bought algae remover chemicals ($25).

Week 8: Chemicals didn’t work. Green hair algae spreading. CORRECTION: Finally installed light timer (6 hours daily), started 30% water changes twice weekly, manually removed hair algae by twisting around toothbrush.

Week 12: Hair algae under control after 4 weeks of strict lighting/feeding discipline. Added 5 Amano Shrimp to prevent recurrence.

Lesson Learned: Fish-in cycling worked (risky but Zebra Danios are bulletproof), BUT not installing light timer in week 5-6 led to 4 extra weeks fighting green hair algae. Could’ve been avoided.

Case Study #3: 20-Gallon Planted Tank (Aquascaping Setup)

Setup: ADA-style scape, CO2 injection, high light (Chihiros WRGB II), 15 plant species, fishless cycle

Week 1: Brown algae appeared despite CO2 and high light. EXPECTED: Diatoms don’t care about CO2/light – they need silicates.

Week 2: Added 8 Otocinclus immediately (planted tanks can support them early due to biofilm from plants).

Week 3: Otos cleared brown algae rapidly. BUT: Green dust algae appeared on glass (common in new planted tanks with high light).

Week 4DECISION: Did NOTHING about green dust algae (it’s self-limiting – disappears in 2-4 weeks). Maintained 8-hour lighting schedule, dosed fertilizers normally.

Week 6: Green dust algae disappeared naturally (as predicted). Light green spot algae on glass (normal in planted tanks – indicates low phosphates). Dosed phosphate fertilizer to balance nutrients.

Month 3+: Stable. Minimal green spot algae on back glass (left alone – harmless). Front glass wiped 1x weekly. CO2 + fertilizers + 8-hour lighting = plants out-compete algae. Zero algae issues since week 6.

Lesson Learned: Planted tanks STILL get brown algae (week 1-3), then green dust algae (week 3-6). High-tech doesn’t skip the timeline – but plants help control green algae long-term once established.

Case Study #4: 55-Gallon Low-Tech Community (Budget Setup)

Setup: Aqueon 55G, pool filter sand, no CO2, basic LED strip (Nicrew), 5 Anubias + 3 Java Ferns, fishless cycle

Week 2: Brown algae coating entire sand bed (looked like brown carpet). TEMPTATION: Siphon all the sand. RESISTED: Left it alone (sand releases most silicates in first 4 weeks).

Week 4: Peak brown algae. Tank looked horrible. DECISION: Added 10 Otocinclus + 5 Nerite snails (algae-eating army).

Week 6: Otos and snails cleared 90% of brown algae. Sand visible again. Installed light timer (6 hours daily). Added 12 Zebra Danios + 8 Corydoras (cycle complete).

Week 8: Light green film on front glass only. Wiped weekly. CRITICAL: Fed fish conservatively (once daily, what they eat in 2 min). Started 30% weekly water changes.

Month 4: Tank stunning. Minimal green algae (<5% coverage on back glass – left alone). Maintenance routine: 30% water change Sunday (30 min), glass wipe Wednesday (3 min). Feeding: Once daily M-F, fasting Saturday (fish health day). Zero algae problems since month 2.

Lesson Learned: Large tank (55G) had MORE brown algae (more surface area releasing silicates), but same timeline. 10 Otos cleared it in ~2 weeks. Feeding discipline + light timer prevented green algae explosion.

Case Study #5: 75-Gallon “Restart” After Brown Algae Panic (Cautionary Tale)

Initial Setup: 75G, Fluval FX4 filter, black sand, 20+ live plants, fishless cycle

Week 2: Brown algae appeared. Beginner panicked: “Is my sand bad? Should I remove it?”

Week 3HUGE MISTAKE: Emptied entire tank, rinsed all sand thoroughly (thinking it would remove silicates), restarted from scratch. Cost: 6 hours work + restarted nitrogen cycle.

Restart Week 2: Brown algae appeared AGAIN (rinsing sand doesn’t remove silicates from the sand GRAINS themselves – they release slowly over 6-8 weeks regardless).

Restart Week 3: Beginner contacted me: “It came back! What do I do?” My advice: “STOP. This time, do NOTHING. Just wait 4 weeks.” Reluctantly agreed.

Restart Week 7: Brown algae cleared naturally (as it would have in the original setup). COST OF PANIC: 6 hours wasted + 4 extra weeks of brown algae (because restart delayed the 6-8 week silicate depletion clock).

Lesson Learned: Restarting a tank because of brown algae is the WORST mistake beginners make. You’ll get brown algae again in the new setup – it’s unavoidable. Just wait it out the first time.

Decision Tree: Should I Do Something About This Algae?

Use this flowchart to decide if action is needed:

Question If YES → Action If NO → Action
Q1: Is my tank less than 8 weeks old? It’s probably brown algae (diatoms). → DO NOTHING or add Otocinclus. Wait 4-6 more weeks. It’s probably green algae. → Go to Q2.
Q2: Does the algae wipe off EASILY like dust? It’s brown algae (diatoms). → DO NOTHING in weeks 1-4. Add Otocinclus to speed up removal if desired. It’s green algae (harder to remove). → Go to Q3.
Q3: Are my lights on more than 8 hours daily? REDUCE to 6-8 hours IMMEDIATELY using timer. This is your #1 priority for green algae control. Good. Lights are controlled. → Go to Q4.
Q4: Am I feeding fish more than once daily or giving large portions? REDUCE feeding to once daily, only what fish eat in 2 minutes. Overfeeding fuels green algae. Good. Feeding is controlled. → Go to Q5.
Q5: Are my nitrates above 20ppm? INCREASE water changes to 30% twice weekly until nitrates drop below 20ppm. Test weekly. Good. Nitrates are controlled. → Go to Q6.
Q6: Is my tank near a window with direct sunlight? MOVE TANK 6+ feet away from window OR use blackout curtains during peak sun hours. Sunlight = guaranteed green algae. Good. Tank location is fine. → Go to Q7.
Q7: Do I have live plants (especially fast-growers like Hornwort)? Good. Plants help compete with green algae. → Your setup is optimized. Green algae should be <10% coverage. If still heavy, consider algae-eating crew (Otos, Nerite snails). ADD 5-10 stems of fast-growing plants (Hornwort, Water Sprite, Guppy Grass). They’ll out-compete green algae for nutrients.

Common Questions: Brown Algae vs Green Algae

Q1: Is brown algae normal in a new tank?
Yes, brown algae (diatoms) is 100% NORMAL in new tanks during the first 2-8 weeks. It’s actually a GOOD SIGN that your tank is cycling properly. Brown algae feeds on silicates released from new substrate, decorations, and glass. As your tank matures and beneficial bacteria establish, brown algae naturally disappears within 3-6 weeks. You don’t need to panic or use chemicals – just wait it out or add 6+ Otocinclus catfish to speed up removal (they’ll clear 70-80% in 5-7 days). If you see zero brown algae in a brand new tank by week 2, that’s actually unusual – might indicate your cycle hasn’t started yet (test ammonia to confirm).
Q2: Does brown algae mean my tank is cycled?
Brown algae appears DURING cycling (weeks 1-4), not after. It’s one of the first signs that the nitrogen cycle has started, but doesn’t mean cycling is complete. A fully cycled tank shows: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5-20ppm nitrates (test with API kit). Brown algae typically appears in week 1-2 (before cycle completes), peaks in week 3-4 (mid-cycle), then starts disappearing in week 5-8 (as cycle finishes and silicates deplete). If you still have brown algae after 8+ weeks, test your tap water for high silicates (silicate test kit ~$15) – you may need RO/DI water or silicate-removing filter media.
Q3: Why did I get green algae right after brown algae disappeared?
This is the predictable progression every new tank follows: Brown algae (weeks 1-6) feeds on silicates → silicates deplete → brown algae starves and disappears → green algae colonizes the “open space” (weeks 4-8+) using light + nutrients. It’s NOT “trading one problem for another” – it’s your tank maturing on schedule. The key is setting up green algae prevention (light timer 6-8 hours, weekly water changes, feeding discipline) in week 5-6 BEFORE brown algae fully clears. If you wait until week 8+ to install a light timer, green algae will already have exploded. Prevention is easier than removal.
Q4: Can I use chemicals to speed up brown algae removal?
NO – algae remover chemicals kill beneficial bacteria = delays nitrogen cycle by 2-4 weeks. You’ll spend $20-30 on chemicals that don’t work (brown algae returns in 48 hours because silicates are still present), PLUS set back your cycling progress. Better options: 1) Do nothing – brown algae clears naturally in 4-6 weeks (free, zero effort). 2) Add 6+ Otocinclus catfish (week 3+) – they eat brown algae voraciously, clearing 70-80% in 5-7 days ($18-30 one-time cost, but they’re permanent algae control). Otos are the ONLY “chemical” worth using – and they’re biological, not chemical.
Q5: How do I know if I have brown algae or green algae?
Brown Algae (Diatoms): Brown, tan, or rust-colored. Looks like fine dust or flour coating. Wipes off VERY EASILY with finger (like wiping dust off a shelf). Appears week 1-4 in new tanks. Coats all surfaces uniformly (glass, substrate, plants, decorations). Green Algae: Bright green, emerald, or olive green. Can be dots (green spot), powder (green dust), film, or hair-like strands. HARDER to remove (needs scraping/scrubbing). Appears week 4-8+ as tank matures. Prefers well-lit areas (front glass, tops of plants). Quick Test: If it wipes off like dust and your tank is less than 6 weeks old, it’s brown algae. If it requires scraping and your tank is 6+ weeks old, it’s green algae.
Q6: Should I reduce lighting to get rid of brown algae?
NO – reducing lighting does NOT affect brown algae (diatoms). Diatoms don’t need much light – they feed on silicates, not photosynthesis. You can run your lights 4 hours or 12 hours, brown algae doesn’t care. HOWEVER, you SHOULD install a light timer (6-8 hours) in week 5-6 to PREVENT green algae from exploding after brown algae clears. Don’t reduce lighting for brown algae (pointless), but DO set up a timer proactively for green algae prevention during the transition period.
Q7: Will brown algae come back after it disappears?
RARELY – once silicates deplete (6-8 weeks), brown algae doesn’t return unless you add NEW silicate sources (new silica sand, new rocks, new decorations). If brown algae reappears in an established tank (3+ months old), test your tap water for high silicates (some municipal water has 5-10ppm silicates). Solution: Use RO/DI water for water changes or add silicate-removing filter media (Phosguard, Purigen). But 95% of cases, brown algae is a one-time “new tank phase” that never returns.
Q8: Can I have both brown and green algae at the same time?
YES – common during the transition period (weeks 5-7). You’ll see brown algae thinning out on decorations/substrate, while green algae starts appearing on glass. This is normal. Brown algae is on its way out (silicates depleting), green algae is moving in (light + nutrients available). Action: 1) Continue letting brown algae clear naturally or use Otocinclus. 2) Implement green algae prevention NOW (light timer, weekly water changes, feeding discipline) so green algae doesn’t explode. The overlap period lasts 2-3 weeks, then brown algae is gone and only green algae remains (at manageable levels if prevention is set up).
Q9: Do Otocinclus eat both brown and green algae?
YES – Otocinclus eat: Brown algae (diatoms) – LOVES it, eats voraciously. Soft green algae (film, green dust) – eats readily. Green spot algae – can eat small spots, struggles with crusty large spots. They DON’T eat: Hair algae (too tough), black beard algae (not their diet). Add 6+ Otocinclus in week 3-4 for brown algae removal, then they transition to eating soft green algae as brown clears. They’re permanent algae control – keep them long-term. Need established tank (3+ weeks old) with biofilm for survival. Don’t add to brand new tanks (day 1-7) – they’ll starve without existing algae/biofilm.
Q10: My tank is 10 weeks old and still has brown algae. What’s wrong?
If brown algae persists past week 8-10, one of three issues: 1) High silicates in tap water (test with silicate test kit – some tap water has 5-10ppm). Solution: Use RO/DI water for changes or add silicate remover (Phosguard). 2) Silica-based substrate continuously releasing silicates (play sand, some aquarium sands). Solution: Accept that brown algae may be present at low levels permanently, or replace substrate (drastic). 3) It’s not brown algae – might be brown-tinted green algae or cyanobacteria (blue-green algae). Test: If it’s slimy and smells foul, it’s cyanobacteria (needs different treatment). If it wipes off like dust, it’s diatoms (silicate issue).

Final Thoughts: Embracing the Timeline

After 8 years of setting up tanks (12 tanks total, ranging from 5G to 75G), I can tell you with 100% certainty: Every single new tank goes through the brown algae phase. High-tech, low-tech, planted, non-planted, expensive, budget – doesn’t matter. Brown algae appears in weeks 1-4, peaks around week 3-4, then clears by week 6-8. It’s as predictable as the nitrogen cycle itself.

The difference between beginners who panic (spending $50-100 on useless chemicals, restarting tanks, endless scrubbing) and experienced hobbyists (who calmly wait 4-6 weeks) is simple: understanding the timeline.

Once you know that brown algae is temporary and self-resolving, you stop fighting it. Once you know that green algae appears during the transition period (weeks 4-8), you set up prevention BEFORE it explodes. And once you establish the Stage 3 maintenance routine (light timer, feeding discipline, weekly water changes), algae becomes a non-issue – just 2 minutes of glass wiping weekly.

Here’s what I want you to remember:

  • ✅ Brown algae = normal new tank phase (weeks 1-6). Don’t panic. Wait it out or add Otocinclus.
  • ✅ Green algae = mature tank challenge (weeks 4+). Requires prevention setup (light timer, feeding discipline, water changes).
  • ✅ Week 5-6 is THE critical decision point. Install light timer and add plants NOW = easy green algae control. Do nothing = green algae nightmare by week 10.
  • ✅ Don’t restart your tank because of brown algae. You’ll get it again in the new setup. Just wait 4-6 weeks.
  • ✅ Chemicals don’t work for brown algae (kills beneficial bacteria, delays cycling). Otocinclus work better, faster, and cheaper long-term.

Your tank will mature. The brown algae will clear. If you set up green algae prevention during the transition, your tank will look stunning by month 3 with minimal maintenance. Trust the timeline.

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